Enter your pump type, well depth, and horsepower for an itemized 2026 cost range — pump unit, labor, and the add-ons that actually move the price.
Answers stay on your device until you choose to send them anywhere.
| Type | Depth range | Typical installed cost |
|---|---|---|
| Submersible Deep-well pump | any depth | $1,425–$2,850 |
| Jet pump Shallow-well pump, to ~25 ft | to ~25 ft | $450–$900 |
| Convertible jet Shallow-or-deep pump, to ~90 ft | to ~90 ft | $700–$1,290 |
Example rows shown at typical depth/horsepower per type — your calculator result above is specific to what you entered.
Which one your well actually needs, and how depth decides it — not preference.
9 symptoms that point at a dying pump — and the ones that usually mean something cheaper.
What's realistic to do yourself, and why deep-well work isn't a weekend project.
Tell us your ZIP and we'll connect you with a local well pump pro who can give you an actual bid.
Get quotes from local pros →Most homeowners pay roughly $975 to $2,875 for a straightforward submersible pump replacement in an average-depth well, with a national average around $1,500–$2,000. Shallow jet pumps run cheaper ($500–$1,800 installed); deep wells (300+ ft) or high-horsepower pumps can push a submersible job to $4,000–$5,500+. Depth and horsepower are the two biggest levers — use the calculator above for a range that matches your well.
If you see a pump housing sitting above ground near the wellhead or in a basement/utility room, that's a jet pump. If the only thing at the wellhead is a capped casing with wires and a pipe going down into it, and no visible pump body, you have a submersible pump sitting down in the well itself. Most wells drilled since the 1970s, and virtually all wells deeper than about 25 feet, use submersible pumps.
A submersible pump has to be lowered on drop pipe with a wire running the full depth of the well, and pulling the old one back out (usually with a truck-mounted rig) takes longer the deeper it sits. Each additional 100 feet adds meaningful pipe, wire, and labor time — which is why a 300-foot well can cost double what a 100-foot well does for the identical pump.
Not necessarily — a pressure tank can outlast several pumps if it isn't waterlogged or rusted through. But if yours is old, corroded, or you've had short-cycling problems (the pump kicking on and off rapidly), replacing the tank alongside the pump avoids paying for a second service call later. It typically adds $800–$1,500 to the job.
On three-wire submersible pumps (common at 1 HP and above), a separate control box outside the well houses the start capacitor and relay that get the motor running. If yours is more than about 10 years old, corroded, or shows scorch marks, most well contractors recommend replacing it alongside the pump — a failed control box will also kill a brand-new pump. Budget $150–$600 for the box itself.
A quality submersible pump typically lasts 8–15 years, sometimes longer with clean water and a properly sized system; sandy or corrosive water shortens that. Jet pumps, being above ground and more exposed, often need attention sooner. If your pump is past 10 years and showing symptoms — pressure loss, cycling, sputtering, rising electric bills — replacement is usually the more economical call than another repair.
A shallow jet pump — mounted above ground, all connections accessible — is within reach for a confident DIYer comfortable with electrical and plumbing work. Pulling and replacing a submersible pump is a different job entirely: it requires specialized well-pulling equipment (a rig to safely lift hundreds of feet of pipe and wire), and many states require well work to be done or permitted by a licensed well contractor. See the DIY vs. professional guide before deciding.
No — it's a planning-stage estimate built from published 2026 national cost data for the pump type, depth, and horsepower you enter, not a live bid from a contractor who has seen your well. Local labor rates, well casing diameter, site access, and the condition of your existing wiring can all move the real number up or down. Use it to sanity-check a bid, not to replace one.